Sat. May 1, 2021 - Jeff planned brilliantly so that we left before rush hour (thanks, Tori, for driving us) and had time in the United Lounge before leaving at 7pm for a late night flight. Going to the lounge felt like the old international travel days. We got to enjoy watching the Kentucky Derby over complimentary mint juleps with Medina Spirit winning. Then two movies later, we were in San Francisco. Alas, no shuttle to the Hilton Garden Inn Burlingame, so we got a taxi and collapsed with a bit of jet lag.
Sun. May 2 - Our cute convertible Mini Cooper was delivered to the hotel by a Turo participant, and after resolving an issue with the top-down machinery, we were on our way south to visit a former teaching colleague and friend, Meg Porter. We stayed at the Continental Inn - clean and comfy, but dated and in a questionable area with homeless shouting at night, near the boardwalk amusement park of days gone by. Brunched at Crow’s Nest with a fab view of a waterway filled with boats motoring out to the ocean. Meg’s son Connor gave a good car tour of the area -- amazing homes with even more amazing views of the ocean. We ended up at the Natural Bridges State Park and Beach, first walking through the area where monarch butterflies rest during their migration. Had five o’clocks in their lovely garden and then a vegan spaghetti dinner over bottles of wine and long talks.
Mon. May 3 - After Jeff held an on-line tutoring session, we experienced a warmer-than-expected day with a walk around Capitola and into their quaint town center for a coffee and more conversation. We booked a night at the lovely lodge in the neighborhood at the end of our trip. Meg and I went for a pedicure while Jeff sought out a craft beer. We then toured the wine and spirits store where Meg works, picking out a few bottles for later, and buying fish for dinner at the grocery next door. A lovely dinner, long remembrances and stories, ending with insider advice for the drive south the next day.
Tues. May 4 - My bucket-list trip began in earnest on this day with a long drive along “the 1” for a stunning coastline view of California. The houses clung to the cliffs along Monterey and Carmel. So glad we came in the spring to view the beautiful flora, some I had never seen before. Entering the forests of Big Sur on the roadway that had just been repaired, we stopped at Nepenthe restaurant for a good lunch and even better view — one that reminded us of the winterline in India. Once out of Big Sur, we saw elephant seals basking on their beach, then drove through cattle ranches on both sides of the highway, spying the Hearst Castle in the distance in San Simeon. Cambria was a sight for sore eyes after the long winding drive -- a quaint town right on the ocean with beach access at low tide. We gladly settled into The Beach House, a well-appointed one-bedroom apartment at front of the Cambria Beach Lodge, with two private decks overlooking the crashing waves of the Pacific. We then drove to the Cookie Crock grocery for dinner items, which we gladly cooked at the apartment. As I started our travelog, Jeff went down to put his toes in the freezing water and gingerly walk along the black sand pebble beach. After watching the sunset, we collapsed onto the futon in front of the fireplace, warming up as the day cooled. Jeff went out later to see the stars, easily identifying constellations with the help of his phone app. What a restful place - oh, and I must note that we had a certificate for this apartment - a credit card “bonus”. Perfect.
Wed. May 5 - After a complimentary continental breakfast, we got some exercise. Jeff borrowed a hotel bike and I walked the length of the boardwalk along the ocean. It was foggy and cool, but a brisk walk warmed me up. The tidal pools, piles of driftwood, and wind-blown trees lining the boardwalk were photo-worthy. Legs stretched, we reluctantly left Cambria for a long drive to Seal Beach. The drive was quite varied, down highway 1 along the coast, then 101 inland through citrus groves and strawberry farms all obviously irrigated — little would grow without imported water. We encountered a lengthy traffic jam due to a car crash near the Great Adventure amusement park, then endless various highways during rush hour varying traffic speeds from 0 to 75 for two hours, finally arriving at the familiar 405 exit for Seal Beach Boulevard, to the Ayres Hotel. We quickly unpacked and walked — yes, walked — to Spaghettini Restaurant across the boulevard. Who walks anywhere in Los Angeles? The fabled Spaghettini features frequently in Tori and Jaime reminiscences of dinners with Dad. It was our first visit. A Rolls-Royce pulled up as we arrived. The prices were appropriate, the service was slow: Jeff’s lobster ravioli was truly to-die-for delicious, but Barb’s penne was mediocre, and the final bill was around ninety dollars.
Thursday May 6 a full day in Seal Beach, with a very slow wake up, enjoying the fitness room, heated pool and jacuzzi. Lunch at Super Mex (excellent), happened to be very close to the eventual pickup point for the yacht, next to the Huntington Harbor Yacht Club. Meeting aboard the luxury yacht, beautifully furnished, which will suit us well for the ash-scattering departing 9am July 17th. Barb sealed the deal. Then a roundabout drive back to the Ayres Hotel and a wait for the Breathless on Broadway show (online, facebook), while Jeff prepared for tutoring session Friday morning about 1800s European history. Soon after 6 we drove to downtown Seal Beach, walked the Main Street shops, shared a chocolate milkshake very caloric, and discussed possible catering arrangements for July 17th luncheon, agreed to try to arrange for rooms that open onto the courtyard and host the luncheon there with food delivered in.
Friday May 7 Jeff did online tutoring for an early hour, then more fitness room, pool, jacuzzi, packing, departure, phone calls to Aida and Alex d’Attore…… Drive up the 405 to the airport, then on to the Pacific Coast Highway #1, quite slow through Santa Monica, then opens up beautifully onto the coast for miles and miles with the top down, the iconic southern California convertible ride. Up and down steep highway 154 to Solvang, the quaintest tourist town with a Danish theme; walking the lengthy shop-lined streets and eating at Solvang Brewery (just okay). Solvang Inn and Suites is just one of many old style motels, rooms old, un-renovated but clean and functional …and it has a heated pool and jacuzzi! They provided tickets for a free Danish continental breakfast at the bakery across the street - long line, but delicious danish pastries, hard rolls with havarti cheese, OJ and coffee/tea. Afterwards we roamed the shoppe-lined streets, stopping at the Jule Hus for specialty Christmas items - a german candle ornament for Claire and this year’s Byer’s Charles Dickens figurine to add to the Ogden collection. We found Jeff a nifty, actually cool hat to protect his pate from the California sun and a new packable sun hat for Barb. Shopping delayed us and we had to power-walk to get to the hotel, but not penalized for a late checkout.
Saturday May 8 - We had a short drive to Paso Robles where we easily found the Adelaide Hotel, recommended by Meg. Jeff made a bee-line for takeout Mexican food to bring to the lovely pool at the hotel. He enjoyed the heated water that still felt cool compared to the heat of the day - in the 80’s! Our room was spacious and comfortable. We drove into the Paso town square to Porter’s favorite Thai Classic restaurant where we had Pad Thai and Lime Curry Fish special, along with a Singha beer. Dessert was, of course, sticky rice with fresh mango and coconut milk. We walked all around the square, window shopping, noticing a quirky art gallery and ending up at the Ascension Winetasting room for a short list of chardonney, pinot noir and a syrah blend. They also brought out their stellar Olivia, which was complex and expensive. We settled on the pinot and a hospitality gift bottle of Benton for Meg and Connor. Later that night, we drove out to a place called Sensorio for a stellar light installation called Field of Light by Bruce Munro. It was truly awesome and worth the drive and pricy tickets. We walked through the fields of multicolored lit bulbs looking like futuristic flowers, then went to see the towers of light made from optic fibers in stacked clear wine bottles. The experience was enhanced by African music and the equally beautiful stars overhead.
Sunday May 9 -- After a workout in the fitness room and a yummy Denny’s breakfast, Mother’s Day greetings came dutifully in before we pulled away from the Adelaide. We drove back up PCH, this time noting where the rockslide had closed the road earlier in the year. It seemed amazing that they completed the repairs just before our trip began. We stopped once again in Cambria for more photos and then snacks for the car as we pushed on to Big Sur Lodge. Meg and son Connor met us there. After settling into our cabin, Connor whisked us away for cocktails to enjoy as we dangled our feet in a freezing crystal-clear river while sitting in Adirondack chairs. We had a surprisingly upscale meal at the Lodge “only open for Mother’s Day”, then back for lots of reminiscing and wine in front of the warm fireplace.
Monday May 10 -- We ate the fruit and muffins we had brought to the cabin for breakfast, then walked some of the trails around the Lodge as longer ones further afield were closed. The park was beautifully maintained, with good signage. Connor drove off with our large suitcase. Meg rode with us back through Carmel where we “ooh’ed and ah’ed” at the houses and shops, finally settling on The Belle cafe where we each found a sandwich and hot beverage to warm us up from the chill. We continued on to Capitola, checking into the Monarch Grove Inn, where we stayed in old victorian suite with a lovely veranda and gorgeous view of the grounds and the ocean beyond. After a nap, Meg brought over a mexican dinner which we had on the veranda, quickly finishing so we could get out of the cold and beside the electric fireplace. More wine, more talking, even calling Barbara Dunlevy, a former colleague from Saudi.
Tuesday May 11 -- After a beautifully presented continental breakfast delivered to our room, we went back to Meg and Connor’s to collect our suitcase and enjoy one last meal together -- Meg’s special avocado toast -- while Barb washed a load of essentials. After a difficult goodbye, we had an easy drive to San Francisco, avoiding the rush hour traffic. Jeff found a Japanese restaurant where he had fresh sushi and I enjoyed a warming bowl of ramen. We slept comfortably in the Hampton Inn near the airport.
Wednesday May 12 -- After a workout in the fitness room, we collected our grab-and-go breakfast to eat in our room and get ready to go to former Woodstock colleague Maureen Fromme’s apartment for lunch. She had moved to an area close to our hotel in a beautifully landscaped subsidized senior apartment complex. She had prepared a lovely lunch complete with homemade rolls and yummy dessert. She updated us on former Woodstock students as well as interesting stories from her past before giving us advice on where to go, what to see in our next destination, Golden Gate Park. We charted a course to the Bridge Welcome Center, then walked halfway across the bridge (as it was foggy, cold and windy), and then on to the Botanical Garden where we enjoyed seeing the Native California and Redwood tree sections. We then walked to the apparently popular Korean restaurant Umma for Korean spicy soup, bulgogi and soju.
Thursday May 13 -- We rose early to repack and leave the hotel by 7:30, with Jeff dropping me at the airport with the bags while he returned the rental car. The owner drove Jeff back to the airport and we had time for a bite and a cup of coffee/tea before boarding the plane for home. I remarked that this had been a wonderful vacation -- a trip of a lifetime -- but I was ready to go home and sleep in my own bed. Watching a few movies, the flight seemed to get us back to Chicago in no time, with Tori picking up us easily at the airport. Much to tell, many photos to share.
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