The Valle del Maiz festival, based in one of the oldest parishes of San Miguel, parades throughout the city on successive weekends in May. Sunday the 28th it paraded through the central Parroquia, where we chanced upon it. The seemingly never-ending sets of dancers were mostly representing indigenous groups in varied costumes, some maize-like, some skeletal, some more typical Indian dress, all dancing to drumbeats. We first notice that the drummers were strangely not-costumed, as if they were randomly recruited at the last minute. The dancers were mostly seriously focused on their synchronized dance – each group had a slight different step-pattern. But we also notice the syncretism between the Church and the local culture, wherein all the banners had a cross and holy phrase – and each group, no matter the costume, paused when it passed in front of the Parroquia church, took off their hats and knelt in homage, most making the sign of the cross as well. Then they stand up, the drumbeat starts again.
There are police, and barriers, in Beirut. Our first 2 days in one neighborhood were quite peaceful. Yesterday we walked further, to see more typical signs of concrete barriers and razor wire and military guards around the former President's house, and then today around the Saudi Arabian embassy. We also note the flurry of construction activity, both buildings and roads; yet in amongst the renovated sleek apartment buildings and shopping malls are old walls pockmarked with bullet-holes, and empty shells of buildings including the bizarre alien-looking building in the center of town. Cole and I attended a lecture by Tariq Ramadan at the American University of Beirut -- educational, fascinating even though Prof.Ramadan was speaking quite academically and not wanting to get tied down. The question-and-answer session was even more enlightening, to hear the emotional and articulate ripostes and sallies. About 400 people attended. ...
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